Budapest... Greatest City in the World.

This is a hard place. And with the winter season, a cold, hard, gray place. You notice it on the ride into town from the airport, and on this particular day, there was an eerie, hazy fog blanketing the city. Passing a large group of Commie Blocks, barren industrial wasteland and run down neighborhoods. There's a feeling that starts to form in your head that says "wow, maybe those stereotypes of Eastern Europe are correct after all." You also notice it on the faces of the older generations. the ones who lived through Hungary's roughest of times; WWII, Communism, Fascism, the Revolution of 1956. Their shoulders tense, faces emotionless and eyes colder and harder than arctic tundra. But once into the main area of Budapest, everything changes. Admiring the beautiful architecture you start to realize why they call Budapest the Paris of Eastern Europe. The city is set up similar to Paris with block after block of buildings as enthralling and architecturally grandiose as Prague. At the same time it has this faint sense of gritty-ness that evokes a Brooklyn-esque feel to the city, reminding you of your current Eastern European location. Make no mistakes, this is a beautiful city! From the hills of Buda, down to the Danube across the river to Pest. Breathtaking. Especially as you take the tram across Margit Hid to the Buda side from Pest.

Some of the great things we did:

First and foremost, being the gastronome that I am, I will speak of the food we ate. First off the ubiquitous foods of Budapest; traditional Hungarian goulash. Tasted first at the Nagy Vasarcsarnok (Budapest Central Market) alongside a cup of mulled wine, both delicious. The next time I had goulash was at a Söröző, a Hungarian pub, in Moszkva Ter on the Buda side called Trombitás Gösserező. It was much better here than at the market. We also had a dish of breaded, fried duck livers which was quite tasty and a plate of breaded fried mushrooms with a spicy cheese sauce. The other ubiquitous food you find here is Turkish kebab, and it seems like there are at least 3 joints on each block. It's like Pizza in New York, or taco stands in Southern California.

One thing that blew me away about the food scene in Budapest is the number of quality, authentic, multi-national restaurants. First off even garbage fast food from America tastes better and incidentally is better for you in Europe. Remember how good McDonald's tasted when we were growing up? You could actually taste the beef patties, and buns were grilled. That's how it is here in Budapest and for the most part in all parts of Mainland Europe I've been to. Bryan and I found a Mexican restaurant on Erzsébet körút called Tacos Locos. Not too sure about Mexican food in Eastern Europe at first. Bryan, having lived in Mexico for a few years examined the menu and found it to be authentic. We proceeded in. Tacos de cochinito pibil (baby pork)and pozole (a Mexican soup) were both extraordinarily flavorful, authentic and filling. We both left happy.

Dinner on New Years Eve was Tapas at a restaurant called Pata Negra. Once inside a quick glance around provoked a very good and possibly unanswerable question; What the fuck do they put in the water here? Hungarian women are hands down the most beautiful women I have ever seen. I've been to Southern California, Spain, Germany, Czech Republic, Arizona, Denmark, Ireland etc... they have nothing on Hungarian women. It's mind numbing, but more on them later....or maybe not, I do have family that reads this. All I will say is whether at a restaurant or on the tram or walking around I thought I was gonna have a combination of whiplash and a nervous breakdown. Back to tapas at Pata Negra: The food at this place was spot on. Sangria, Razor clams, bouquerones, squid, garlic shrimp, IBERICO HAM! all fabulously done and super traditional. It rivals tapas I've had both in Boston and Barcelona. Keep in mind this is IN BUDAPEST!!! This is a great place to take a date.

Finally, a block from our apartment was Chez Daniel, a beautiful and traditional French restaurant. We started out with a French rendition of Tuna tartare, next up was a pate of foie gras which, if you've never had foie gras, you need to try it immediately. My dinner plate consisted of Duck Confit which was out of this world. Perfectly crispy on the outside, moist, tender and a texture like pullled pork on the inside. All of this washed down with a glass of decent French red wine, some cheese at the end of the meal and an espresso to finish it all off. The three of us left beyond full and beyond content. This town knows how to do food!

Of course, no trip to Europe for me would be complete without long nights of suds and shaking (alcohol and a lil' dancing and debauchery). First there was Rocktogon, a basement bar not too far from Oktogon sq. set in a basement with cheap beer, cover bands, Iron Maiden posters and patrons you'd imagine listen to Iron Maiden. A dirty, seedy, rock 'n' roll dive? indeed. We left there and headed to Morrison's Music Pub, a place we would visit 3 more times during our trip. This place was by far our favorite. An underground labyrinth of drinking, lounging, karaoke, and dancing. You get lost your first time through, but then you quickly learn your way around. Then there was Morrison's 2 a 4 level club, not as good as the music pub, but you have 4 different floors of music and hanging out to choose from. There was also Moulin Rouge, your typical, none pretentious, drinking establishment/ disco. Which reminds me; let me clarify this. In Europe, a disco is a place to dance, a night club is usually a strip club.

New Years Eve? Well, I've never seen anything like that before! One could liken it to Times Square but on a much smaller and less touristy scale. The streets of Oktogon Sq. were mobbed with revelers, A DJ was blasting music, video screens pumping video and visuals, food stalls selling Hungarian street food, mulled wine, beer and bottles of cheap champagne. Tables set up selling masks, noisemakers and fireworks. YES you read that correctly, fireworks. Hell, there we're guys walking through the crowd selling roman candles. When the clock struck Midnight the square went crazy! Fireworks from every angle, champagne, kissing, hugging, and lots of EGESZSEGEDRE!!! (Hungarian for cheers, or, to your health).

To wrap it up, I am in love with this city, it has everything I could ever ask for; good food, efficient public transportation, history, culture, sights, low cost of living, and oh yeah beautiful, friendly women. I will live here before I turn 32.

SZERETEM BUDAPEST!

Oh yeah and lastly since i started this off with some of the great things we did. Some of the not so great things we did:
we left, but will return soon.

Barbara Streisand!!!


PS Steve, thank you for the "free" beers.

Comin Back Around Again

Friends, Travel Junkies, Countrymen; Lend me your ears!
I'm coming back, real soon. Keep your blog reading eyes peeled. I'm off to a foreign land known for paprika, palinka, porn stars, and a language I'm still trying to wrap my head around. Viva la Magyarorszag!!!! That would be Hungary to the uninformed, Budapest to be a bit more specific. I will be there for New Years Eve joined by two of my very good friends; a one Mr. Steven Craig Eaton (one of Boston's finest) and a certain Bryan Dugan (formerly of Manch-Vegas NH, now residing in Colchester, Essex England (have ya heard of an Essex Girl? Google that shit)). This time I promise to offer posts more in depth, and more interesting than "So I wandered around this place for a while, went back to the hotel to nap then drank a bunch at night"
Stay tuned friends.